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| Gastronomic Tour of the Cote-D'Azur |
| Sally K. Frey, Head Food Writer, Wine Television |
 My first trip to the South of France took me to the Cote-D'Azur this past weekend where I indulged in a holiday exploring the glitz, glamour and gastronomy of Cannes, Nice, Monoco, and Monte Carlo in the company of a like minded friend. During the six hour train journey from Paris to Cannes, I was filled with romantisied thoughts of F. Scott Fitzgerald's 'tender nights', Ernest Hemingway's 'Garden of Eden', Cole Porter's lyrics, visions of canvas's by Van Gogh, Cézanne, Matisse and Picasso contrasting with images of dazzling Hollywood and Grace Kelly's elegant style.
Despite the amusement of people watching in the Café du Paris in Monte Carlo or stepping on the red carpet of Cannes, the things that impressed me most about the French Riviera were far more authentic and simple pleasures. The amazingly fresh produce, the fish -
which seemed to swim to the table, the rich olive oils, creamy goat's cheeses, and the variety among the many excellent local wines.
My enjoyment of Nice began in the open-air market (Tuesday through Sunday, 7AM to 1:30 PM) stretched along the Cours Saleya. In the market you can find
two particular specialties of Nice: hot socca and pissaladiére (a Niçois pizza topped with onions, anchovies, and black olives). Socca is a delicious,
hot Provençal type crépe made with a thin batter of chickpea flour, baked on a flat round metal pan the size of a wine barrel. Sizzling hot socca arives at
Chez Térèse's market stand on the back of a specially customized bicycle throughout the market day from a small nearby shop. The delivery person has the
exhausting job of trying to keep up with the demand for the regional treat from both local customers and enthusiastic tourists alike.
The Italian influence is strong in the region, with pasta on many menu's. My friend ordered the pate au pistou (pasta with pesto) at La Meranda in Nice. So
impressed with the dish, on my first night back in Paris, I attempted to recreate my own version for a visiting friend. My recipe for 4-6 persons follows:
Let the following ingredients infuse for at least 30 minutes:
- A handful of shredded fresh basil
- A handful of chopped parsley
- 4-6 cloves of garlic, minced
- 1/2 cup of extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoon Herbs de Provence
- Sea salt and fresh pepper to taste
Toss one pound of freshly cooked (aldenté) and drained Fettuccine with 2 tablespoons of unsalted room temperature butter. Divide the pasta among serving
dishes for 4-6 persons. Top each portion with the basil and oil mixture then garnish with toasted pine nuts and freshly sliced Parmesan cheese. Serve at
once.
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About The Author
Sally Frey will receive her PhD in English from Goldsmiths College, The University of London in 2001. A longtime cooking enthusiast and Julia Child admirer she is currently completing Le Cordon Bleu's Grand Diplome experiencing the schools both in London and Paris. |
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